Visit to the KGB: Spy agency opens door to world of secrets

I was having dinner at the Moscow apartment of Tatiana Kudryavtseva, the Russian translator for books by Graham Greene, Joyce Carol Oates, Norman Mailer, John Updike and William Styron, among others. But it wasn’t a literary evening. The other guest was Rufina RufinaPhilby, widow of the British spy. Tatiana knew her through Greene, who had written a preface to Philby’s memoir.

Rufina, or Rutchka, as Tatiana called her, was disarming, referring to Kim as the spy and recounting how they’d met in Moscow when a friend couldn’t use a ticket to the U.S. Ice Capades. The couple going with her invited Kim. She recalled how depressed he’d been in his Russian exile until the KGB finally gave him a job–training spies to behave as proper Brits so they’d pass easily in England.

I asked if she’d been to the KGB Museum I’d heard about.

I’ve never been there, she said. I don’t know anything about it. I didn’t know there was one.

That turned out to be far from the truth.

Where to stay in London

Planning a visit to our cousins, the Brits? In London, there are several main areas best to stay in. Most convenient is the West End — known as Theatreland. You can move further west and live near one of the big parks or squares — Green Park or Grosvenor.

Here is the majestic Millennium Britannia in Grosvenor Square. Millennium

Or you can choose to be in Knightsbridge, Chelsea or Kensington, the trendy areas that are minutes from downtown by tube and have the flavor of an upscale Greenwich Village and Upper West Side. I checked out hotels in each of those neighborhoods.