Lisbon: gorgeous history, art, culture, food, wine in a southern Europe jewel

Lisbon: gorgeous history, art, culture, food, wine in a southern Europe jewel

I hadn’t been to Lisbon for decades, not since a few years after the Revolution of the Carnations in 1974 when the military overthrew the dictator, Antonio Salazar. Happy people in the streets stuck those flowers in the muzzles of solders‘ rifles and on their uniforms, and so the revolution – which turned democratic — got its name. It was glorious to visit again, and experience Portugal‘s well-deserved reputation for charming, warm and friendly people. But for many American travelers, Portugal is not on their list. It should be.

Discover port & Portugal‘s Douro Valley, on UNESCO World Heritage list

Discover port & Portugal‘s Douro Valley, on UNESCO World Heritage list

The oldest demarcated wine region in the world in not in France. It is in Portugal, in the Douro region near Porto, famous for port wine, and a necessary stop on any traveler‘s tour of the country. Though the vineyards are an hour-and-a-half distant and more, the cellars are in Vila Nova de Gaia, just across the river from Porto. There, port wine companies have set up tours and tastings, and we spent a happy few hours there under the tutelage of Taylor Port‘s Claire Aukett.

“Phaedra(s)” director turns Greek goddess‘s love for stepson into tedious over-the-top modern sex-obsession

This is one of the most interesting bad plays I‘ve ever seen. The production by the Odéon Théâtre de l‘Europe is in French, with English surtitles. The best part was a riotously funny and clever satire of the pretentious French intellectuals who hold forth and preen on TV talk shows. Isabelle Huppert is perfect as a very self-involved novelist speaking in double-time to explain the sexual connections between gods and humans. That comes from the part of the production based on writing by South African novelist J.M. Coetzee. But most of the 3 ½-hour long (very long) evening is simply pretentious. Director Krzysztof Warlikowski, artistic director of the Nowy Teatr in Warsaw, starts with the Greek myth of Phaedra, daughter of the king and queen of Crete, who, after Athens‘ King Theseus has defeated and slaughtered her people, agrees to a marriage to Theseus arranged by her brother.

Edinburgh Fringe: Bonita Brisker channels Billie Holiday

Edinburgh Fringe: Bonita Brisker channels Billie Holiday

In a velvet ankle-length gown, white gloves and white fur stole, the signature gardenia over one ear, Bonita Brisker glitters like the rhinestones on her costume. “What a little moonlight will do…” she channels Billie Holiday, her songs, her life. “Greetings FBI” to the government thugs who harassed her. She reminds the audience that she “cut a man for putting hands on me wrong.” And Count Basie fired her. And then, “Them their eyes!” It‘s a masterful performance that brings Billie to life.

Edinburgh Fringe: the struggle for justice

Of the plays I saw during six days in August at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, these plays about justice stood out: “A Common Man: The Bridge that Tom Built,” “The Red Shed,” “Playing Maggie,” and “Undermined.”

The first play is about Thomas Paine, who fought for liberty in colonial America, was forced out for his politics, and spent time in London and also as a member of the Convention in revolutionary France, before having to flee. His story is not well enough known in America. The other three, addressing issues in the Paine tradition, deal a few centuries later with British politics and particularly the miners‘ strike of 1984-5, which still reverberates in Brits’ psyches.

Edinburgh Fringe: the people the system chews up

I spent six days in August at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world‘s largest arts festival. Out of the hundreds of plays presented, I sought out those about politics. I‘ve divided the best by their themes. Here are three about the people the system chews up: “Diary of a Madman,” “Trainspotting” and “A Streetcar Named Desire.”

Edinburgh Fringe: dance is classical, jazzy, sometimes almost like sculpture

Edinburgh Fringe: dance is classical, jazzy, sometimes almost like sculpture

The Fringe is not only about theater. There is also dance. Here are performances I found important. The classic Studies in Red, 3 girls 2 boys, twists, turns, high kicks and poses in excellent form was a highlight. This choreographers‘ showcase has been presented at the Fringe for 15 years, and it‘s a good chance to see an eclectic selection of creative dancers, ranging from traditional to minimal. In this case, the best were traditional!

Edinburgh Fringe: plays on the system‘s corruption

I spent six days in August at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world‘s largest arts festival. Out of the hundreds of plays presented, I sought out those about politics. I‘ve divided the best by their themes. Here are two about the system‘s corruption: “The Trial” and “Enron.” It’s quite fascinating to see surreal plays about systemic corruption a century apart. Franz Kafka was ahead of his time in describing the nature of the evil of modern society. His 1915 story “The Trial,” adapted in Edinburgh as a play, shows the evil of a government bureaucracy that grinds up a banker for no particular reason. Then look at Lucy Prebble‘s “Enron,” still surreal, where the bureaucrats are now corporate officials, but are still presented, like the Kafka play, as if this were a weird vaudeville.

Edinburgh Fringe: plays about war and its fallout

I spent six days in August at the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world‘s largest arts festival. Out of the hundreds of plays presented, I sought out those about politics. I‘ve divided the best by their themes. Here are several about war and its fallout: Angel, Glasgow Girls and Hess.

“Oslo” is riveting story of back-channel negotiations that led to 1993 Israeli-Palestinian accord

The Americans had to be kept in the dark, out of the loop, not told anything about the secret Oslo talks between Israelis and Palestinians. Because the Americans’ big-power arrogance would derail them.
That is a provocative note in “Oslo,” J.T. Rogers‘ play about the back channel negotiations that led to a ground-breaking Israeli-PLO agreement signed at the Clinton White House in 1993. It would create the Palestinian Authority, with limited government over the West Bank and Gaza and agreement for both sides to continue negotiations.

“Hadestown” powerful, political, jazzy retelling of Orpheus and Eurydice myth

“Hadestown” powerful, political, jazzy retelling of Orpheus and Eurydice myth

Hades of course is hell. And singer-songwriter Anaïs Mitchell‘s script and music, directed by Rachel Chavkin, is based on the Greek myth of Orpheus, who journeys to Hades in order to find his love, the nymph Eurydice, who has been killed by a poisonous snake.

Here Orpheus is a minstrel. His wonderful music persuades the King of the Dead to let him take Eurydice home as long as he does not turn around to look at her until they reach the upper world. They have to trust each other. But….

“The Crucible” a stunning parable of McCarthyism‘s attack on America

Arthur Miller‘s brilliant parable of the Sen. Joseph McCarthy attack on American liberties, allowed by the U.S. Congress till it became too obscene for even cowardly politicians to stomach, is brilliantly staged by Ivo Van Hove, a Dutchman who understands and communicates Miller‘s political message (see also his “A View From the Bridge”) in a theatrical manner that makes politics into art. Using a metaphor of real events some 260 years earlier, it tells of accusations without evidence that were used to damn the innocent. They occurred during the Salem witch trials in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, 1692-93.

Laura Benanti is luminous as smart shop clerk in “She Loves Me”

Laura Benanti is stunning and luminous as Amalia, a smart, assertive clerk in an upscale perfume shop in 1934 Budapest. Her trilling soprano shimmers.

The story itself is corny, schmaltzy. The slow start makes you think sit com, but it gets better. Its light fluff is underpinned by some serious commentary about the economic condition of workers and the way men treat women.

“Radiant Vermin” a biting bloody fable about the rich and the poor

Think of Philip Ridley‘s play as a Gulliver‘s modest proposal for furnishing your home. Nothing like what Martha Stewart might recommend. It‘s a very smart macabre satirical over-the-top sci fi allegory, a modern deal with the devil, and in case you weren‘t sure about what counts, director David Mercatali opens the play with Madonna‘s “Material Girl” and the Beatles‘ “Money.”

Jessica Lange’s despairing woman‘s “Long Day‘s Journey Into Night” is tour de force

From Jessica Lange‘s remarkable dissolution as the drug addicted Mary, reaching her nadir (and theatrical heights) in her mad scene, to Michael Shannon‘s stunning drunk, you are blown away by Jonathan Kent‘s staging of Eugene O‘Neill‘s “Long Day‘s Journey Into Night.” It is autobiographical. His father was a famous dramatic actor and O‘Neill as a youth traveled with his parents. The younger son, Edmund, stands in for O‘Neill.

Frank Langella in “The Father” brilliantly creates confusion of man with dementia

The fascination of Florian Zeller‘s play about a man suffering from Alzheimer‘s is that it is told from the point of view of the sufferer. I noted early on a very beautiful French desk, and then not long after, it wasn‘t there. Hmm, I thought. What happened to the desk? Then other items of furniture in his apartment weren‘t there.

Or was it his apartment? It seems that his daughter was married and living in London. But no, he was living in her Paris flat, and she was married to someone else. Or was that the case?

“Skeleton Crew” shows worker solidarity at time of corporate uber-power

Workers solidarity, a labor union, caring about each other may appear a bit old fashioned in this neoliberal era, but Dominique Morisseau shows vividly how that is a lifeline for four people facing the loss of the jobs at a Detroit auto plant in 2008. At a time when the corporate 1% thinks nothing of what closing factories does to workers.

That of course was the year that bankster fraud almost brought down the world financial system and caused business failures that threw millions of people out of work.

“Eclipsed” is stunning, surreal look at the horrors women suffered in Liberian civil war

Danai Gurira‘s stunning, naturalistic play is about the horror of war with no horror shown, only talked about. It takes place in Liberia during the civil war of the 1990s and 2000s. There is something surreal there. Three women who have been taken as sex slaves by a military commanding officer are so dehumanized, they have no names. They call each other Wife #1, Wife #2, Wife #3, as their only identities.

Yet, there is some solidarity. The older one (Saycon Sengbloh) there 25 years – since she was 12 or 13 — seems beyond outrage; she cares for other girls. Wife #2 (Zainab Jah), about 19, escapes to get a gun and join the army so she can kill men who attack her. She declares, “With a gun, no man can touch you.” Wife #3 (Pascale Armand) is pregnant, naïve, cried at the rape, but sees no way out.

“The Judas Kiss,” about Oscar Wilde and the aristocrat who was true to his class

“The Judas Kiss,” about Oscar Wilde and the aristocrat who was true to his class

Surprise that a play about a famous homosexual starts with a man and woman cavorting in bed. We see them waist up, she is nude. But we discover that they are just hotel servants, not the main attraction, who is gay and upper class in his tastes. That‘s Oscar Wilde, the playwright whose sense of entitlement probably helped blind him to the dangers of challenging the British upper class hypocrisy that, riven with homosexuality itself, just didn‘t like it displayed so openly. Not in 1895. So, in some ways, David Hare‘s very strong play is as much about class as about sexual choice. Class, of course, plays a role in other Hare plays.

Ban offshore banks with account secrecy from US correspondent accounts: Nobel laureate Joseph Stiglitz

Ban offshore banks with account secrecy from US correspondent accounts: Nobel laureate Joseph Stiglitz

June 3, 2016 – Joseph Stiglitz, Nobel prize-winning former chief economist of the World Bank, says that the way to solve corruption and money-laundering facilitated by offshore banks that run secret accounts is to “shut them down.” And the way to do that is to ban non-transparent banks from US correspondent accounts. He spoke at a Council on Foreign Relations meeting today.
At the breakfast on “Is U.S. Finance Hurting Growth?”, he addressed an aspect of banking that was not on the agenda, asking, “Why do we have offshore banking?

Tax Evasion Nation: Will the U.S. be Branded a Tax Haven?

Tax Evasion Nation: Will the U.S. be Branded a Tax Haven?

The American Interest, May 26, 2016 – It will indeed, unless something changes, according to a member of a European Union delegation to the United States investigating shell companies.

An international agency could label the United States a tax haven as the result of America‘s refusal to require the names of beneficial owners of companies registered in the U.S. So said European MP Eva Joly, a member of the European parliamentary delegation to the U.S. that met last week with government officials and Congressmen on the issue of America‘s clandestine shell companies.

“Blackbird” raises questions about a man‘s sexual abuse of a young girl

This is one of those emotionally riveting plays that suddenly flips you over as you realize that everything you took for granted is not so. You are quite sure that David Harrower‘s story fits in with your beliefs about men‘s sexual abuse of young girl, until maybe it doesn‘t. Strongly acted by Michelle Williams and Jeff Daniels. (Williams is so much better than her bland performance in “Cabaret,” that you don‘t think it‘s the same person.)

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